See Ya' Down The Road

Whitewater Rafting - We Survived

Mary Lou and Ralph Feldt


Eleven in our group began our downhill descent on the Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon National Park at 6:00 am. The trail was very rough, mainly because it's also a mule trail. There were many ruts and rocks and it seemed we had to lift our feet 12 inches for every downhill step we took. My backpack weighed 27 lb. and Ralph's 25 lb. (I had 2 lb. of M&M's stashed away to share with the rafting group. I also carried the deodorant and toothpaste.) The canyon vistas in the morning sunrise were awesome. We reached the lush area of Desert Gardens and rested about 15 min. in welcomed shade and took on nourishment and water. Continuing on we felt we must be very close to the river. Wrong. We took a curve and in view before us lay miles of steep switchbacks. This last part was the most difficult. Our legs became rubbery and by now the heat was intense. We collapsed at the river after 4-1/2 hours and 8 miles of travel. Two couples, MUCH younger than us had difficulty and our river guide hiked up to meet them and helped carry their packs for them. It took them 1-1/2 hr. longer.

Nine rafters from the upper river trip and six guides had lunch waiting for us. We repacked into waterproof bags and we were off! The first two days gave us high water releases from Glen Canyon Dam (California was begging for electricity), and the river and rapids gave us a fast ride. One rapid gave us a 22' wave!! Then as the water level dropped the rapids took on a different look. We had to run them in different ways. The Colorado River water was now a clear green and a beautiful sight.

Our group consisted of 20 passengers, four oar boats, whereby the guide rows, one supply oar boat and one 6 passenger paddle boat where everyone paddles. We were all able to switch boats to experience each kind. On Day 3, I (Mary Lou), elected to go in the paddle boat. We soon approached "Upset Rapids". All the oar boats ran it successfully. They waited at the bottom of the rapids for us in the paddle boat. We took the first two waves O.K. but we were a little too far to the right and didn't have enough momentum to reach the top of the 3rd wave. The raft stayed upright but tossed all 6 of us and our guide into the frothy roaring water. Before I went in I got my lungs filled with water from the 2nd wave and then the guy in front of me jabbed his oar up my nose, stunning me. Then I was flipped in for more traumatizing. I opened my eyes under water and viewed huge boulders.. It seemed like hours but actually only seconds before I surfaced. Six of us were pulled back into the raft and one guy ended downstream and was rescued by a different raft. What a terrifying experience and it was all filmed on a digital video camera. It was neat to watch it hours later in a more relaxed state. As it was, this was the only mishap during the whole trip. Ralph also swam a rapids but did so voluntarily thus not really qualifying for the elite "Grand Canyon Swimmers Club" whose membership depends on non-voluntary participation. Lava Falls was another huge rapid. Our boat was completely filled with water when we emerged. That run was also filmed and our guide said he lost sight of Ralph and I in the front of the boat at one point. We were completely engulfed by the wave.

Our 9 days consisted of rafting 10-30 miles a day, taking side canyon hikes and loading and unloading the rafts 3x/day. We had good camp-style hearty meals, many cooked in dutch ovens. A favorite was a dutch oven chocolate chip cookie. We were issued tents and sleeping bags but the majority of nights Ralph and I decided to sleep outside beneath millions of stars and amongst a variety of critters. This trip was "roughing it" like we had never experienced. Toilet facilities were "unique"(a toilet seat on an ammunition can - open air with fabulous views). Bathing in 50 degree water was a rare occurrence. The days were bright and sunny ranging between 90-100 degrees. We had two days of loafing around waterfalls and reading, etc.

Ralph experienced rowing the oar boats on several occasions and kayaking some smaller rapids in the inflatable toy boat. He did an excellent job in both. He also body surfed a rapid. I decided that I had gotten enough of body surfing through "Upset Rapid". Our group was very compatible and we shared many laughs. Ages ranged from 30's to 60's. Ability ranged from experienced back packers to a 60 year old woman with MS and a cane. Our guides were superb. In our group we had three cases of dehydration and two cases of sun poisoning, but more importantly, we all made it!

The canyon itself was the best part. It's hard to put into words the constant beauty we encountered. We were in awe day after day. Our last five miles of the trip was run slowly in complete silence. We were the only ones on our boat and Sam, our guide, occasionally maneuvered the boat to give us 360 degree views. I found myself getting choked up by the canyon's majesty and beauty. We were so fortunate to have experienced this. This trip is highly recommended if you ever get the chance. We've never worked so hard to have so much fun. We traveled 136 river miles and were met by vans and a wonderful lunch, complete with ICE for the drinks. We all helped break down the rafts and equipment and loaded them onto a truck for the return to Flagstaff. We hated to see it end.

Yesterday we were in Arizona's rugged remoteness. Today we're viewing endless billboards on Interstate 40 as we're driving through New Mexico. We're beginning the first of three long driving days. We begin "work" Sunday volunteering at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Ahhhhhh. Somebody's got to do it! Actually, one reason we decided to go to Rocky Mountain was to be near daughter, Michelle, so we could visit leisurely with her. Today she left us a phone message. It seems while we were rafting the river she took a job in Santa Monica, CA and has already begun working there. So much for our visit!

Mary Lou and Ralph

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