Hannibal, Missouri

Leaving Pere Marquette State Park at Grafton, Illinois we had a relaxing drive up highway 100 to Hardin where we crossed the Illinois River, then at Kampsville we headed west on highways 96 and 54 to Louisiana where we crossed the Mississippi River on a very narrow bridge. Oh, that is Louisiana, Missouri and not the state of Louisiana and that is where the fun began. The bridge is two lanes, but actually about 1 3/4 lanes wide so meeting traffic while driving an 8 1/2 foot wide motorhome takes some skill. From Louisiana we drove highway 79 north and we had read it is not suitable for trucks or wimpy drivers of any vehicles and what was the first thing we met - a semi truck coming full-steam ahead. There were steep grades and drops, sharp turns and a narrow road with no support beyond the pavement. Get over a bit too far and you’re a goner. But is was a scenic route and is designated the Great River Road, a Scenic Byway and the MRT (Mississippi River (Bike) Trail).

We stayed at Mark Twain Cave & Campground on the south side of town and near our campsite site was the actual cave that young Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) explored and later wrote about in his adventure books. To get an overview of the town we took a narrated trolley tour that took us through old downtown where Samuel Clemens lived, by old mansions and churches and to Riverview Park with an elevated look over the Mississippi River. Molly Tobin grew up in Hannibal and married J.J. Brown who struck it rich in gold mining. On the way from Europe back to Hannibal she took the Titanic which sank, but Molly survived and became know as the Unsinkable Molly Brown.

Back in town we bought tickets that admitted us to eight historic properties. Our visit started at the Interpretive Center where Mark Twain’s life history is displayed in exhibits (very interesting) and then we toured the boyhood home of Mark Twain and a gift shop. Next we visited Becky Thatcher’s house, Huckleberry Finn’s house, the Justice of the Peace building where Samuel Clemens’ father worked, and Grant’s Drug Store where the Clemens family lived after Samuel’s father died. We also walked along the famous fence that Tom Sawyer persuaded his young friends to pay him for the privilege of painting. Lastly we visited the Museum Gallery that depicts the history of Hannibal, the river and the life of Mark Twain. Galleries on the second floor displayed original works by three famous artists. 1) Jerry Palen, who draws the rural cartoon series, Stampede, that features characters Flo and Elmo. 2) Ace Reid, whose series Cowpokes, features Jake and Zeb. 3) Norman Rockwell, the famous painter visited Hannibal in 1935 to illustrate limited edition books of Mark Twain, Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn. It was a pleasure to see original works of these men up close and personal.

While walking down Main Street we met Mark Twain HIMSELF. Veteran stage actor Richard Garey portrays Mark Twain HIMSELF in the Planters Barn Theater. Garey has performed his show in forty states and this is his fifth year to perform in Hannibal. He has mastered portraying Mark Twain and it was very interesting talking with him.

Keokuk, Iowa

We had no idea what to expect at Keokuk or even how to pronounce the name of the city, but we were impressed. The city was named for Chief Kiyo’ kaga who later was known as Chief Keokuck or Chief Keokuk, but he was not a full-blooded Indian, was never a chief and spent very little time there. When the town contained one framed house and ten log cabins, nine residents drinking whiskey voted the town be named Keokuk.

A printed guide showed a driving tour of thirty large and beautiful houses along Park Place and Grand Avenue along a rise over the river. We stopped at each house and read its history and learned Keokuk was home to many business owners, politicians and millionaires. As we drove along the river to downtown we saw block after block of houses, larger and more impressive than the featured houses.

A large swing bridge, no longer in use, is now a partial walkway to view the Keokuk Water Power Plant and Lock and Dam # 19. The original dam and power plant were built with private funds from enterprising men who saw a need for electric power in booming Keokuk. The present lock was put in operation in 1957 at a cost of 13.5 million dollars. It is 1200 feet long, 110 feet wide and has a rise of over 38 feet, more than any lock on the Mississippi River. We have watched many barges go through locks, but it is so interesting we watch ever change we get such as at Lock # 19.


Over the bridge in Illinois we found Hamilton Family Restaurant, an eating establishment recommended by the campground manager. Our eyes popped out when we looked at their prices for the evening meal - choice of meat, two vegetables, bread, drink (coffee or tea) and dessert for $5.95. The next morning we returned for breakfast - two eggs, bacon or sausage, home fries, toast and coffee - $3.25. Later, north a Keokuk we ate at a restaurant serving choice of meat, soup or salad, two vegetables, bread, drink and dessert - $5.95. Wow, an old retired person on a fixed income can live “high on the hog” around Keokuk.
 

Nauvoo, Illinois

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, whose members are sometimes called “Mormons” was officially organized in 1830 by Joseph Smith. After the church was organized religious persecution forced the members to move several times and in 1839 they relocated to Nauvoo, Illinois (City of Beautiful). In 1844 Joseph Smith and his brother Hyrum were killed by a mob and under the leadership of Brigham Young in 1846 they journeyed 1,300 miles from Nauvoo to Salt Lake City, Utah. By this time over 12,000 Mormons lived in and around Nauvoo. The members of the church had built homes and stores and they left everything behind for their westward journey and during the extreme hardships of the journey many died.

A temple was constructed at Nauvoo 1841-1846 and was dedicated by the few members who remained there, but the temple was vandalized, burned and finally totally destroy by a tornado in 1850. Construction on the new temple began in 1999 and it was dedicated in 2002.

Nauvoo today replicates the efforts of the 1840s Saints with demonstrations of pioneer livelihoods, restorations of historic businesses such as the bootmaker, the tinsmith, the pharmacist and opportunities to visit authentically restored homes. Period costumed site interpreters share historically documented explanations of everyday life in old Nauvoo.

Nauvoo is something like an amusement park where an entrance fee allows a visitor to attend shows, events, rides, museums, demonstrations and historic buildings. The only difference from an amusement park is there are no fees in Nauvoo - everything is free. We began at the Temple Visitors Center to learn about the old and new temples, then we took a narrated horse-drawn Conestoga Wagon tour around historic Nauvoo and learned the history of the town. At the Historic Nauvoo Visitors Center we learned about the early Mormon religion and studied paintings and pictures of their journey to Utah, along with letters about the hardships of travel written by those who made the journey.


At the Family Living Center we watched demonstrations of weaving, cooking and participated in rope-making. Outside on the beautiful grounds the Nauvoo Brass Band entertained us with patriarchic music. We stopped at the old post office and toured the home and shop of Jonathan Browning, the father of the Browning rifles. Our next tour was the home of Brigham Young, the second president of the Church and the man who led the members to Salt Lake City, where he became a government leader as well as the Church leader. In this house the Mormon leaders met and made plans for their journey.


Before we knew it the day was gone and we had only begun. We did not attend the musicals, drama and comedy plays or dance contests. We did not watch the tinsmith, blacksmith or print shop in operation. We did not visit the brickyard, school, bakery, drug store and many of the buildings. It would be easy to spend two full days at Nauvoo.

Let me add - Nauvoo is the place where the Mormon religion flourished in the 1840s and the town has been restored to that period. Mormon volunteers are at every stop to assist and offer information, but they NEVER promote their religion or try to convert visitors. Just like many places we have visited this is a “place in history” and we highly recommend you stop at Nauvoo for a day or two.
 

Fort Madison, Iowa

After leaving Nauvoo we crossed back into Iowa at Fort Madison on the “crooked bridge” with a rotating span for river traffic. Sure don’t want to drive a motorhome across that bridge. Old Fort Madison is a reconstructed fort on the Mississippi River and it looked interesting, but was closed on Mondays. Why would a fort be closed on Monday? Before leaving town we drove by a prison and it looked like a medieval building and I don’t think it would be fun living there.