Travels In The West - Part 13

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Cripple Creek

It is 46 miles from Salida, Colorado to Cripple Creek for a bird, but we had to drive around mountains so it took us 109 miles - north on highway US 285, east on highway US 24, south on highway CO 67, by the west side of Pikes Peak, over a 10,000 plus foot mountain and finally we dropped into Cripple Creek at an elevation of 9,494 feet. We had been in Cripple Creek ten years ago and have always wanted to return and stay longer. We selected Eagles Landing RV Park for our seven day stay because it is in the middle of the town, but its not much more than a dirt parking lot with hookups and has the worst WiFi I've ever experienced.

In 1890, rancher Bob Womack discovered gold and thus began the last great gold rush in the lower 48 states. Cripple Creek and nearby Victor became known as The World's Greatest Gold Camp. Within four years what had been a quiet, serene cattle ranch was a booming gold camp with about 50,000 souls. In 1894 a fire burned down much of the town's builds and another fire that same year destroyed most of the rest of the buildings. The city fathers ordained the business district be built in brick and today those brick buildings line Bennett Avenue and house the modern day casinos. In its heyday the Cripple Creek and Victor Mining District had several lumber yards, over 40 assay offices and an equal number of brokerage firms, 80 doctors, 91 lawyers, 14 newspapers, 100 saloons and of course red-light districts. Electricity lighted the town in 1893 and it was one of the first towns in America to have electric lighting.

Several celebrities either grew up there or spent time in the mining district including Groucho Marks, Lowell Thomas, Texas Guinan, Wyatt Earp, Jack Dempsey and Jack Johnson. In 1990, the voters of Colorado approved gambling in three towns including Cripple Creek and the old brick building that had been abandoned many years earlier were turned into modern casinos. Today the population of Cripple Creek is just over 1,000 and nearby Victor has about 400 souls. At the suggestion of friends Mike and Sandie Porter we tried our luck at Bronco Billy's Casino and we did neither good or bad, but we accumulated enough point to enjoy several nice meals. The Porters drove over from their home in Colorado Springs one day and we met at Bronco Billy's for a meal (their treat) and to play some slots. (More on the Porters later.)
 
Cripple Creek
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Cripple Creek Casinos
  
Cripple Creek - Victor Train
  
Victor
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Abandoned mines and collapsing buildings dot the country side and we decided to drive from Cripple Creek to Victor to American Eagle Mining to Goldfield and circle around a mountain back to Cripple Creek. Along the trip we saw two informative signs and this is part of what they displayed.
 

The Cripple Creek Gold Mining District formed on April 5, 1891. In 71 years of operation, the District produced more than 21 million ounces of gold - worth about $8 billion in 1995's market. Known to many as the "World's Greatest Gold Camp," Cripple Creek eclipsed all other districts in the United States. At its peak, around 1900, nearly 500 mines tapped the gold ore and over a dozen thriving communities dotted the hillsides. Three railroads transported its treasures to distant mills and two electric trolleys networked the mines. From 1962 to 1995, the mines lay dormant - but today, gold if flowing again from the District.

Over 500 mines in this district produced more than 21 million ounces of gold, exceeding the combined production of the California and Alaska Gold Rushes.

Everyone has heard of the California and Alaska gold rushes, but few people have heard of the Cripple Creek - Victor gold rush and the latter exceeded the combined output of the two most famous rushes.

On our day trip we stopped to look at several old abandoned gold mines and walked around those that were not fenced off. We turned off the paved highway to drive a steep dirt and gravel road to overlook the present day mining at the Cripple Creek & Victor Mining Company. In the old days worker entered shafts to mine the valuable ore and today large machines remove the mountains and haul it away. Looking down at the operation the large earth moving machines looked like ants.
 
Independence Mine
  
American Eagle Mine
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Cripple Creek - Victor Mining Co
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Cripple Creek - Victor Mining Co
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Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument

Several miles northwest of Cripple Creek is Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, one of the largest and most varied fossil beds in the world. Millions of years ago volcanic mudflows blanketed parts of the valley burying redwood trunks and creating a dam that caused Petrified Redwood Stumpa lake to form. The lake stretched 12 miles through an ancient forested valley and averaged one mile wide. More volcanic eruptions filled the valley with ash which covered and preserved animals, insects and plants. The lake died up millions of years ago and left behind a wonderland of fossils including bones, teeth, shells, mollusks, fish, birds, ancestors of modern horses, a rhinoceros-like animal, extinct sheep-like animals and many plants no longer in existence.

We began at the visitor center where many fossils are on display and then we hiked the one mile Petrified Forest Loop. Ancient redwood trees stumps are in plain sight, but the fossils are underground and of course we were not allowed to dig. Once petrified wood covered the valley but it was hauled away years ago by souvenir seekers. However, paleontologists have collected more than 50,000 specimens for museums and universities around the world.
 

Colorado Springs

Mike and Sandie Porter own a 2005 Dutch Star similar to our motorhome and Mike and I have corresponded often by email. We met them in person for the first time in Laughlin, Nevada earlier this year and they told us when we got to Colorado Spring to give them a call and they would be our tour guides to show us the highlights of their city. We met at their home and then took off for a full day of sightseeing.
 

Our first stop was the beautiful United States Air Force Academy. We toured the visitor center where the history of the Air Force is depicted in displays and exhibits and we continued to walk around part of the campus. The Cadet Chapel was the highlight of our visit. It was in the planning stage five years and was completed in 1963 after four years of construction. Within the one structure is a Protestant Chapel seating 1200 people and a 120 seat choir loft; a Catholic Chapel seating 500 people and an 80 seat choir loft; a Jewish Chapel seating 100 and an All Faiths Room for the use of all other faith groups.

The Protestant Chapel's walls have 24 shades of stained glass with 24,000 pieces of glass and 35 percent is chipped to give a jewel-like appearance. The alter and pulpit are made of marble. The organ has 83 ranks with 67 stops controlling 4,334 pipes, the largest is 32 feet high, dwarfing the smallest which are pencil-like in shape.

The Catholic Chapel's sidewalls are panels of amber glass alternating with accent windows of stained, hand-faceted glass in multi-colored random shapes. Marble sculptures and the 14 Stations of the Cross grace the chapel and the marble is Italian Carrera from the same quarries Michelangelo used in his work. The organ features 36 ranks and 29 stops to control its 1,950 pipes.

The Jewish Chapel's walls are purple-violet glass panels alternating with accent windows of green and blue glass. The foyer floor is paved in Jerusalem stone, a donation from the Israeli Defense Forces.

As you can tell, we were impressed with the beautiful United States Air Force Academy Chapel.
USAF Academy ChapelUSAF Academy ChapelUSAF Academy Protestant Chapel
USAF Academy Protestant ChapelUSAF Academy Catholic ChapelUSAF Academy Catholic Chapel

Our next stop was Garden of the Gods, a free city park with magnificent red sandstone formations. We stopped at the visitor center and then walked along the park's trails and often stopped to watch rock climbers. Before leaving the park we stopped at the Garden of the Gods Trading Post and Linda bought a pair of shoes. The trading post has been in operation about 100 years.
Mike and Sandie PorterGarden of the Gods - ClimbersGarden of the Gods - ClimbersGarden of the Gods

Old Town is a restored district of historic houses and stores. The town was originally named Colorado City in 1859 when it was part of El Paso County, Kansas. The first Colorado Legislative Assembly met in Colorado City in 1861 and found the building too small for a meeting so they moved to Denver. The building where they had scheduled to meet is still standing and is sometimes mistakenly called the First State Capitol of Colorado.

A block from the old "Capitol" is Michael Garman's Productions, a combination museum and store. Garman sculptures include individual figures and sidewalk scenes depicting America or as Garman calls them "Art for the people." The sidewalk scenes include magical hologram-type illusions and constantly changing scenes with computer controls. Garman's works look life-like and in my humble opinion they look like Norman Rockwell paintings coming to life. After studying each scene a few minutes I would walk away and look back and see something different. I wish I could have gotten some good pictures of the sidewalk scenes but the camera blurred most of the pictures.
Colorado First CapitolMichael Garman Sidewalk SceneMichael Garman SculpturesMichael Garman Scene

Our final stop in Colorado Springs was the Fallen Firefighters' Memorial. At large statue of a firefighter rescuing a child stands in front of Fallen Firefighters Monumentthe memorial wall that includes the names of 1,775 fallen firefighters from North America. Included on the wall are the names of 343 New York City firefighters who lost their lives on 9/11. Another 122 names were added in September 2006.

To end of fun packed day of touring Colorado Springs, Mike and Sandie took us to their favorite German restaurant. What a way to end the day - a delicious meal with friends. 

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